6.14.2007

Food & Drinks in Ethiopia

I finally, finally, finally got a chance to update the blog and so as to remain somewhat chronological, I begin here with some reflections on my trip this spring to Ethiopia. Here are some notes on Ethiopian gastronomie without any real method of organization other than the photo-caption-photo-caption kind.


My friends Dalia and Aidan are sitting here at the friendly Itegue Taitu Hotel in the Piazza district of Addis Ababa. This city of 4.5 million or so is the capital of Ethiopia, and Piazza is kind of its uptown. This little patio is a terrific place to start the day with really good coffee and oatmeal. The hotel features posted prices, BBC on satellite, and a phone for customers that is dialed out by a switchboard operator on the hotel staff.



Delicious machiattos and donuts at the Tomoco Coffeeshop, also in the Piazza region of Addis. A kilo of freshly roasted beans (Ethiopian) would cost you less than $5 here. The place was apparently founded by Italians in the 1930's.


This is a photo of macchiato in a brown mug on a white tablecloth with blue stripes on it.


I don't remember what this coffee drink was called but it featured condensed milk or something like it.


This is spriss, from a small juice bar in Bahir Dar. The top 1/3 is a mix of banana puree and lime juice, and the bottom 2/3 is avacado puree. Totally fresh, brilliant, healthy, awesome. Also comes in squash and orange.


My apologies to this German girl whose name I forgot. I selected this photo because she kind of snaps the Ras Dashen beer into the territory of 70's magazine advertising. This was at the Ghion Hotel in Bahir Dar, on the bank of Lake Tana, the headwaters of the Blue Nile. Ras Dashen beer is a welcome and robust counterpoint to any spicy Ethiopian dish. Cheap by Egyptian standards, it is far better than Egypt's Stella, and features a pleasing label around a classic brown bottle. There is basically no reason to drink imported beer in Ethiopia.


While walking around and checking out some churches in Entoto Hills, north of Addis Ababa, we took a break at a wonderfully restful little dining room that was kind of an extension of a small bar. The owner of the place was kind enough to bring us some tasty wat with huge chunks of homemade western-style bread as well as some beer. This is St. George's, which is simply awesome. Its label matches the matches label. It started raining quite hard after we took this photo but we decided to leave anyway and got soaked on our way back to the bus station. Delicious rainy day food and drink, but no photos of the wat.


This was taken in the aptly titled Addis Ababa Restaurant. There are a variety of little gravy-like dishes here, many of them vegetarian, but some from lamb or beef, laid out on injera. That's like a floppy pancake made out of something called tef flour. I think Ethiopian cuisine is simply awesome, its very healthy and filling, and its great for cheapskates who eat in a group. Some of my friends occasionally hire Ethiopians living in Cairo to cook and I need to look into this.


Tej, or honey wine, brewed by the aforementioned Addis Ababa Restaurant. Usually you get tej in a place called a beat, but this is a rare exception. I can't really describe the taste, a bit . . . waxy?